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A trip report by Olle Persson, shared by Långholmen Kajak – the Swedish part of Northkayak. A week-long, 167 km sea kayak tour from Trosa to Sollenkroka through the outer islands of Stockholm's southern archipelago.
Start and finish: Trosa havsbad and Sollenkroka brygga.
Distance: 167 km
Difficulty: The route described is demanding in windy conditions, but an alternative route closer to the mainland is less exposed. In calm weather it is moderately difficult.
The trip offers: Outer archipelago and open bays, open sea, classic archipelago scenery, famous lighthouses, historic customs and pilot stations and a nature centre.
Trosa is said to be the end of the world, but despite that – or perhaps because of it – it is a great starting point for a trip through Stockholm's southern archipelago. From Trosa havsbad we paddle past the Julafton lighthouse and along a chain of smaller islands that give shelter from the open sea. After Fifång comes a longer crossing of almost two kilometres over the shipping lane towards Södertälje. The fog is thick and we listen intently for approaching ships. Just as we have made it across, a ship silently appears out of the fog, but by then we are already past. As we pass Örudden at the far tip of Torö, we can make out the Landsort lighthouse on the island of Öja almost due south. We have now entered Stockholm's archipelago and gradually turn north. After the wide bay towards Järflotta and a night on the Arnholmarna islands, we pass the narrow strait of Draget with the remains of old pilings. This narrow waterway was part of King Valdemar's sailing route, a sailing description from the 13th century.
More than 700 years ago a document was written describing the sea route along the Swedish Baltic coast from the island of Utlängan in Blekinge to Arholma in Stockholm's northern archipelago. The route then continues east via Åland and the south coast of Finland and ends in Reval, today's Tallinn in Estonia. The sailing description lists a long series of place names along the coast. The document is part of King Valdemar's Census Book from the 13th century, compiled under the Danish king Valdemar II Sejr, who reigned from 1202 to 1241. In 1219 he conquered Estonia, which remained under Danish rule until 1346.
When we see Nynäshamn above the treeline to the north, we turn east. Ahead lie two completely open bays, Gårdsfjärden and Danziger Gatt, with the small island of Mällsten between them. Light wind and sunshine make the roughly ten-kilometre crossing possible. If the wind picks up here, the crossing is not recommended. A flock of razorbills flies curiously close over our heads before we reach Nåttarö and its inviting sandy beaches for a break. From here, weather permitting, we plan to paddle through the outer archipelago past Huvudskär, Fjärdlång and Bullerö to Sollenkroka on Vindö, just north of Stavsnäs. On many of the islands we pass, the remains of fortifications from the troubled years of the last century are still visible – for example on Mällsten and on the east side of Utö. We spend the night on a small islet off Hamnudden on Utö.
Huvudskär lies furthest east in this part of the archipelago, furthest out towards the open sea. In summer heat, sunshine and a light breeze, we first pass the strikingly dome-shaped island of Borgen and reach Huvudskär around midday. Here you will find an old pilot and customs station, a lighthouse from the 1930s and a small hostel in the old customs house. Fresh water is scarce on the island, so bring your own – as almost everywhere in the outer archipelago. But now the wind picks up; out here on the open bays the sea breeze has free rein. In a crosswind we push north-west to the west side of Fjärdlång, which offers better shelter. We have arranged to meet a friend and spend the evening on sun-warmed rocks, swapping tall tales and paddling memories. A few years earlier we paddled a long trip along Greenland's west coast, and the year before that a trip north of Lofoten in Norway. Fjärdlång is a nature reserve that also has a hostel.
We part the next morning and paddle out towards Ängsön, following the outermost skerries past Biskopsön and Söderö to Långviksskär. The going is tough in choppy seas with a steady wind, now from the north – a headwind. Without windproof paddling jackets we would have had to stay put and wait for better weather. Even when the wind is not particularly cold, it quickly drains your strength. You get chilled, and easily seasick when the boat rolls a lot.
Långviksskär is a nature reserve made up of countless low skerries with narrow passages between them – a wonderful area to paddle through. It is exposed to wind and weather, so you need good conditions to get there. About 8 kilometres due north lies Bullerö, a nature reserve well worth a visit. The headwind continues, and we reach the small harbour after a hard paddle from skerry to skerry, catching our breath after each short leg. On the island there is a nature centre, a guesthouse and a cultural trail.
From Bullerö we turn north-west and paddle towards Runmarö and closer to the mainland. To avoid the bird sanctuary west of Bullerö, we make a wide detour to the north. We spend the night on a small skerry next to Munkön, with remarkable geological rock formations. Closer to inhabited areas the boat traffic is heavier. We paddle along the east side of Runmarö, past Söderby brygga. The marine forecast the evening before had warned of strong winds, but nothing came of it, and we enjoy calm, fine weather all day. After the narrow strait at Skarp-Runmarö we come out into the busy shipping lane towards Sandhamn – an unpleasant passage we want to leave behind as quickly as possible. At Hasselö and Harö we find a very narrow passage, perfect for kayaks, and come out into the easternmost part of Kanholmsfjärden. Here it is calm and quiet. In general, if you avoid the most popular natural harbours and guest harbours in Stockholm's archipelago and stay well away from the built-up middle archipelago, it is peaceful and easy to find places to rest and camp. We send a grateful thought to Skärgårdsstiftelsen (the Archipelago Foundation), which has kept large areas free from development and open to the public. We make camp on Stora Skatholmen, one of the few islands in this inner part of the archipelago where it is easy to land and pitch a tent. From here we finish the week-long trip by paddling to Sollenkroka brygga, where friends are waiting for us.
The trip was paddled in the first week of August, in these daily stages:
Total: 167 km
A week in the outer archipelago calls for gear you can rely on: a stable, seaworthy kayak with room for luggage, a light paddle, windproof clothing or a drysuit when the water is cold, and dry bags for everything that must stay dry. Take a look at our inflatable kayaks, paddles and kayak accessories.
Text: Olle Persson
