Hidden Gems for Kayak Paddling in Sweden

Sea kayaking in the Marstrand archipelago on the Swedish west coast

A guide by Olle Persson, shared by Långholmen Kajak – the Swedish part of Northkayak.

A world-class coastline

Sweden has a remarkably long coastline. It runs from the Norwegian border in the west, around Skåne and Blekinge in the south-east and all the way up to the Torne River on the Finnish border – about 2,500 km, not counting all the inlets and bays. Include every headland and cove and the distance is many times longer. The whole stretch is a paradise for sea kayak touring, with big contrasts between regions. The archipelagos of Bohuslän, Blekinge and the Svealand coast, including the Stockholm archipelago, are fairly sheltered from the wind. Other stretches – the Halland coast, the Skåne coast and most of the Norrland coast – are open to the sea and offer quite different experiences and challenges.

Bohuslän: Orust and Marstrand

The Bohuslän archipelago is known for its bare granite cliffs and rocky islands and skerries with little vegetation. The whole coast is good for touring, except the area closest to Gothenburg – the approach to the largest port in the Nordic region is dangerous for paddlers. In the peak holiday season the small-boat traffic, especially along the north–south channel, can also be very troublesome. Avoid that, and the paddling here is wonderful. My own favourites are the archipelagos around Orust, the largest island on the west coast, and around Marstrand. From Orust you can, for example, paddle the sheltered west side from Gullholmen down to Käringön, visit authentic old fishing villages and, if you like, feel the ocean swell in the sounds facing the open sea. The Marstrand archipelago is one of the west coast's real gems: a compact maze of narrow sounds, channels, small islands and skerries with bathing rocks around Marstrandsön, Koön and Instön. Avoid the open Marstrandsfjorden to the north and the bays south of the Albrektsund canal.

Blekinge: Hällaryd archipelago

The Blekinge archipelago is the southernmost large, continuous island world in the Baltic Sea, with nearly a thousand islands and skerries. My hidden gem here is the Hällaryd archipelago just east of Karlshamn, partly protected as a nature reserve for outdoor recreation. Good starting points include Matvik near Karlshamn and Järnavik. The archipelago is varied and mostly well sheltered, but the stretch from Järnavik and Tjärö towards Mjöösund is exposed, especially to southerly winds – Alböleudde is a notorious passage. Haröskärv, a skerry just east of Harö, is worth a visit in calm weather. Furthest south, as the last outpost towards the open sea, lies Tärnö: land on the north side, and you will find a bathing beach on the south side.

City paddling in Kalmar

In south-east Sweden lies Kalmar, once the country's gateway to the world. The archipelago just south of the city, Västra sjön, and above all central Kalmar – built on islands with canals between them and surrounded by bays – make a great area for day trips by kayak. Paddle, for example, through the moat around the magnificent Kalmar Castle. For a longer trip, paddle to Rafshagen just north of the city. A good launch point in the centre is at Vattentornsparken.

Sea kayak on the shore of the moat in front of Kalmar Castle, Sweden

Misterhult archipelago

On the northern Småland coast lies the Misterhult archipelago, one of the east coast's gems for touring. Part of the area is a nature reserve with several bird and seal sanctuaries, and the birdlife is rich. The archipelago is fairly shallow, with masses of islands and skerries to rest on, and several old fishing villages – now mostly summer homes – on the larger islands. You can start at Blankaholm, at Hornsudde, in Västervik or from Lysingsbadet just outside Västervik. A lovely day trip from Hornsudde passes through the sound at Spårö båk, one of the oldest sea marks in Sweden, to the archipelago around Krokö and Idö with its former pilot station.

S:t Anna archipelago

The Östergötland archipelago is wide and includes several well-known island groups. The most famous among paddlers is the S:t Anna archipelago – my absolute favourite in Sweden. This finely sculpted archipelago is a maze of low islands that demands precise navigation. Avoid the main shipping lane and you can enjoy the peace and quiet. The best overview is from Kupa klint (also called Missjö kupa) on the island of Kupan, where a stone cairn gives a magnificent panoramic view to the horizon – and just beyond lies the open sea. The birdlife is very rich, with plenty of white-tailed eagles. Start from Tyrislöt on Norra Finnö, where the road ends.

Two sea kayakers passing a channel marker in the S:t Anna archipelago, Sweden

Stendörren in Sörmland

The Sörmland archipelago is almost as large as Östergötland's but has a different character, with larger islands and open bays between them. A few smaller archipelagos stand out, above all Stendörren in Nyköping's northern archipelago. The Stendörren nature reserve is unique: in a small area you find every type of archipelago landscape, from inner to outer archipelago. A nature centre next to one of the east coast's best-known shipping lanes adds easily accessible information, and you can combine your paddle with a hike in the reserve. The islands connected to the mainland have plenty of barbecue sites and rest areas. Launch at the floating jetty for canoes next to the far car park.

The Stockholm archipelago

The vast Stockholm archipelago stretches from Landsort in the south to Örskär in the north, with inner, middle and outer archipelago. The inner and much of the middle archipelago are built up and less accessible, though there are many exceptions. The outer archipelago offers unspoilt paddling but is more demanding because of its exposure to wind, and boat traffic can be very heavy in the shipping lanes. Skärgårdsstiftelsen (the Stockholm Archipelago Foundation) owns and manages a large share of the archipelago's land and many nature reserves open to the public – excellent destinations for touring. My favourites in the southern archipelago are Järflotta south of Nynäshamn and the islands around Långviksskär outside Nämdö. The Björnö reserve on Ingarö can be reached by car and bus. In the northern archipelago, the Möja archipelago is a vast and exciting paddling area, and outside Norrtälje the islands around Arholma, Lidö and Fejan are an interesting alternative, with regular boat services.

The Norrland coast

From the mouth of the Dal River in Gävle Bay, the long Norrland coast follows the Bothnian Sea and the Bothnian Bay all the way to the Torne River. It is largely open to the sea, without sheltering islands near the shore, but some stretches are very exciting to paddle. My favourites are the High Coast in Ångermanland and the archipelago in the northern Bothnian Bay, especially the Luleå archipelago.

The High Coast

The High Coast stretches from the mouth of the Ångerman River just north of Härnösand to Skags udde outside Örnsköldsvik. The whole area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a truly unique environment. The coast drops steeply into the sea, and deep inlets cut far into the land. Paddling here can be a real challenge: in the southern part there are long distances between islands, the stretch up to Bönhamn is very exposed in wind, it is hard to land in many places, and waves rebounding off the cliffs can be a problem. Wild and inaccessible – but magnificent. There are also great destinations: the fishing village of Bönhamn, Högbonden lighthouse, the Ulvö islands with their red granite, and Trysunda with sandy beaches and a hostel. The light alone is fantastic – the long, low summer evening light brings out the drama of the landscape and the rolling evening swell of the Bothnian Sea.

View south over the High Coast from Högbonden, Sweden
From Högbonden lighthouse you have this view south over the dramatic High Coast.

Old boathouse left far from the shore by land uplift on the High Coast, Sweden
Post-glacial land uplift has left this old boathouse far from the water. Along the whole coast you can see the effects of the uplift.

The Luleå archipelago

The northern Bothnian Bay is home to Sweden's northernmost archipelago. The islands are fairly spread out, with large open bays between them, and several are really large sandbanks that have risen from the sea through post-glacial land uplift. There is no crowding here: you can easily find long sandy beaches to rest or camp on in complete solitude. Some favourites are the northern tip of Junkön with its guest harbour, the south side of Storbrändön, and Hindersön, where the Jopikgården restaurant serves local specialities to hungry paddlers. South of the Luleå archipelago, about halfway to Piteå, lies another favourite, Nord-Mörön, where a magnificent sandbank links the island to neighbouring Möröskäret. Haparanda Sandskär, a national park far out to sea, is another fascinating destination – but you need stable, calm weather to paddle there.

Ready to explore?

Whether you head for a sheltered archipelago or an exposed coast, a seaworthy sea kayak is the best way to explore. Travelling by car or train? An inflatable kayak packs small and lets you paddle wherever you end up.

Text: Olle Persson